Tissue surrounding the spots may turn yellow. Spots enlarge, and by the time they are one-fourth inch in diameter or larger, concentric rings in a bull’s eye pattern can be seen in the center of the diseased area. Applications should continue on a 7 to 10 day schedule until harvest.Įarly Blight (fungus – Alternaria solani): Early blight is first observed on the plants as small, black lesions mostly on the older foliage. Spraying should begin whenever weather conditions are favorable for disease development. Crops should be sprayed regularly with a fungicide. Control practices include rotating fields so as not to follow potato or tomato avoiding planting tomatoes near potatoes using disease-free seed and transplants. Infection on tomatoes may occur from nearby potato fields or from airborne spores. Hot and dry weather reduces disease development. Ideal conditions for late blight development are cool nights and moderately warm days with abundant moisture. These spores infect healthy leaves, stems and fruit readily if climatic conditions are optimum. The fungus produces abundant numbers of spores which may be splashed by rains or be airborne. White moldy growth may also appear on fruits under humid conditions. Fruit lesions occur as large, green to dark brown lesions, mostly on the upper half of the fruit, but they may also occur on other parts. The disease spreads rapidly under humid conditions, destroying quickly large areas of tissue. These areas enlarge rapidly, becoming brown, and under humid conditions, develop a white moldy growth near the margins of the diseased area on the lower surface of the leaves or on stems. ![]() Late Blight (fungus – Phytophthora infestans): Lesions produced on the leaves are at first irregular, rather large, greenish-black and water-soaked. Are bumps on tomato stems harmful to plants? How to identify tomato problems and prevent them. Blossom end rot: how to identify, treat, and prevent it. Tomato sunscald: why too much sun can be hazardous to tomatoes. Why a tomato cracks and what to do about it. Tomato problems from growing conditions Blossom Drop: why fruit doesn't set and what to do about it. Stink bugs: how to identify and control them on tomato plants. Tomato worms-cutworms: keep them away with stem collars. Tomato pests Tomato hornworm: how to identify and control it. Learn more on our Tomato Diseases Pinterest board. How to choose and apply fungicide to tomato plants. How to choose a garden sprayer that is best for you. How to understand tomato disease resistance codes. How to identify and treat phosphorus deficiency in tomatoes. How to identify and treat bacterial wilt. How to identify and treat verticillium wilt. How to identify and treat gray leaf spot. Tomato anthracnose: how to identify and treat it. How to identify and treat Septoria leaf spot. Tomato problems from diseases Different kinds of tomato blight and how to tell them apart. Remove and destroy affected plants at the end of the season.Stake tomato plants for better circulation.Mulch with black plastic or landscape fabric to prevent fungus from spreading up onto leaves.Water the soil – not the plants – to prevent splashing.Give tomato plants extra space (more than 24 inches) to let air to move among leaves and keep them dry.Plant tomatoes in a raised bed to improve drainage and prevent diseases from spreading.Plant disease-resistant hybrids to strengthen your plant’s chances of being blight-free. ![]() Spores can be dormant in the soil for several years. Other diseases (such as late blight, Septoria leaf spot, and gray leaf spot) can also be controlled by these biofungicides and fungicides, so application is multi-purpose. You may also choose Mancozeb or Maneb, although these have longer wait times before you can harvest tomatoes safely than does chlorothalonil. Some gardeners prefer chemical fungicides, the best of which for tomatoes is chlorothalonil (sold as Fungonil, Daconil, or under other brand names. ![]() ![]() Or you can treat it organically with a biofungicide like Serenade. You can apply until the leaves are dripping, once a week and after each rain. Treat organically with copper spray, which you can purchase online, at the hardware store, or home improvement center. Treat it as soon as possible and on a schedule. Once blight is present and progresses, it becomes more resistant to biofungicide and fungicide.Remove and destroy infected leaves (be sure to wash your hands afterwards).The best control measure for tomato blight is prevention (see below).
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